Thakur House Fort Kochi Ram Bahadur Thakur

From http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2002/07/01/stories/2002070101030200.htm


House on the seashore

A fairy tale charm envelops the `Thakur House', standing majestically on the Fort Kochi sands. Its period architecture attracted Cotton Mary here. MARY GRACE ANTONY visits the house of mystery, history and grandeur


IT HAS the magic of Enid Blyton brought to life. An old house perched atop a cliff, facing the sea, with underground passages leading to far off destinations. You can almost imagine pirates signalling to each other on dark and stormy nights, as they unload their precious shipments onto the stony beach below. You can nearly hear the rattle of graceful carriages from another time pulling up the front drive with their elegantly attired occupants. Something about Thakur House draws upon even the most humble imagination to paint images of mystery and romance.

One of the many historical landmarks of Fort Kochi, Thakur House was earlier known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow. It was built on the site of the sea facing Gelderland Bastion, (one of the seven bastions of the old Dutch fort) in the late 1700s. With graceful lines reflecting the leisurely lifestyle of the colonial era, it exudes a quiet grandeur. Nestled amidst neatly manicured lawns, Thakur House is isolated from the noise and bustle of the nearby Chinese Fishing Nets and Fort Kochi bus stop.

The present occupant, Mr. Manish Sharma, has been living here for the past ten years. "The original deeds of this house date back to the 1700s." he says. "It was built by the Dutch, mainly as a club and community centre for the Dutch East India Company. When the Dutch left India, it passed into the hands of a prominent spice trading family from Mattancherry." Thakur House remained their homestead, passing from father to son for many generations, until the early 1900s. Following the death of the sole surviving member of the family, a childless spinster, the National Bank of India purchased the building. In 1977, it was acquired for residential purposes by the well-known tea-trading firm, `Ram Bahadur Thakur' Company. It is interesting to hear how Mr. Sharma's grandfather, purchased the house. "Although my family is settled in Delhi, my grandfather had recently expanded his operations to tea trading." explains Mr. Sharma. "He decided to set up an administrative office in Cochin. During a telephone conversation with a friend in Kochi, he heard that an old Dutch mansion in Fort Kochi was for sale. On impulse, he decided to bid for it - even though he had never seen the place." Thus, he found himself the owner of the beautiful sprawling building, and it has remained in his family ever since. Although the rest of Mr. Sharma's family is now settled in the United Kingdom, he resides at Thakur House with his wife and their two young children.


An intriguing aspect of the structure is that it is perfectly symmetrical on both floors. "Since this was constructed as a Club, the original building plan consisted of several halls and corridors." says Mr. Sharma. "We have converted many of these into bedrooms and expanded certain regions, such as the kitchen." One particularly cosy bedroom consists of a converted corridor with a slanting roof. Thakur House sports several trademarks of Dutch architecture, with its wooden floors, spacious rooms and large bay windows. Sparkling crystal and earthen pottery adorn tables and shelves, and ancient glass lamps hang from the rafters. It is an art-lover's paradise, for several paintings, decorates the walls of the rooms. But, the most beautiful scenery of all lies right outside the window - the Arabian Sea stretching away to the horizon. "Earlier, the lawns sloped down to the beach, and we could walk down to the shore," reminisces Mr. Sharma. "However, due to security reasons, we put up a barrier between the beach and our house." This does nothing to diminish the ocean breezes. Says Mr. Sharma, "I enjoy sitting on the lawn and staring out at the sea. It is very relaxing."

If the interiors seem familiar to you, it is because `Cotton Mary', directed by noted filmmaker Ismail Merchant, was shot here. For two and a half weeks in late 1999, Thakur House was overrun by a film crew of 150 people, and played `home' to stars such as Greta Sacchi, Madhur Jaffery and James Wilby. It was the perfect choice for the colonial home of John and Lily Macintosh, and is Thakur House's claim to Hollywood fame. The house served significant strategic requirements at the time of its construction. It was an important watch out point, situated just beyond Cochin harbour. There have been instances when it served maritime operations and military defence purposes against invaders. Hence the secret tunnels that lie beneath the house. "According to folklore, one of these tunnels leads to the St. Francis' Church," says Mr. Sharma. Another passage is rumoured to lead to the Bishop's House.

So, what is it like to live in a landmark? Says Mrs. Sharma, "We both love the location of this house, and its closeness to the sea. It is not too difficult to maintain, since I have an adequate staff to help me. However, without them," she laughs, "It would be impossible!"